Thursday, January 31, 2013

6 Naked Oysters: Island Creeks, Ichabod Flats, Beach Points, Rocky Nooks, Chatham, and Wild Wellfleets

If you're a regular at Oyster Stew, you know that I recently had the pleasure of visiting the Island Creek Oyster Bar in Boston. (Check out my blog post here.) While I was there, co-owner and Chef Jeremy Sewall hand-picked a half-dozen raw, naked oysters for me to try.  Here's what he chose:

1. Island Creeks (Duxbury, MA)
Obviously, the Island Creeks were a star at Island Creek Oyster Bar.  Not only are they served on the half shell, Chef Jeremy uses them elsewhere on the menu: try the fried oyster sliders and Oysters Gregory.  They are briny and meaty and present.  Such a treat.

Island Creek Oysters (Duxbury, MA)




2. Ichabod Flats (Plymouth, MA)
Oscar worthy.  Super briny.  Bold.  Perfect size.  And check out the shell.  Bring on the bling.

Ichabod Flat Oysters (Plymouth, MA)



3. Beach Points (Barnstable, MA)
Beach Points have been grown by Mark Begley for more than 15 years in a southern harbor off Cape Cod Bay.  The oysters are tumbled, which give them deep cups, perfect for holding onto oyster liquor.  They have an elite fan base and often make the Top 10 list of ostreaphiles.  Sometimes compared to lobsters, Beach Points are less salty than their Wellfleet cousins.  I think they are great starter oysters, though oyster lovers will appreciate the nuances.

Beach Point Oysters  (Barnstable, MA)



4. Rocky Nooks (Kingston, MA)
Co-owners Tom Taylor, Greg Parker and John Wheble are harvesting oysters in Kingston for the first time in 60 years.  We should all be thankful they dusted off the oyster industry there.  I find them similar to Beach Points.

Rocky Nook Oysters (Kingston, MA)



5. Chatham (Chatham, MA)
Holy briny flavor.  Steven Wright grows these oysters on Chatham's Oyster Pond River.   They are a favorite among shuckers because they are easy to open.

Chatham Oysters  (Chatham, MA)



6. Wild Wellfleets - (Wellfleet, MA)
You can taste the difference.  Wild Wellfleets, left to nature, soak up all of the sea's goodness.  While many Wellfleets are cultivated offshore by dozens of oystermen, wild Wellfleets take on the traits of the youngest child, breaking all the rules and never getting caught.  Wild Wellfleets finish with a lettucey taste.  In a good way.  The brininess tries to shine, but sea plants shine through.  I like when oysters surprise me.

Wild Wellfleet Oysters  (Wellfleet, MA)

Tuesday, January 29, 2013

Oysters in Wonderland: A Tribute to Lewis Carroll

Happy Birthday Lewis Carroll!!  Jan. 27 would have been his 181st birthday!  Why are we toasting the author of Alice's Adventures in Wonderland on Oyster Stew?

Mr. Carroll is the author of perhaps the most famous oyster story ever.  In his more famous book Through the Looking Glass, Tweedledee and Tweedledum recite a poem to Alice entitled The Walrus and the Carpenter.

The poem is about a walrus and carpenter who take a walk along the beach one night when they come upon a bed of oysters.  They invite four of the oysters to join them (having no feet didn't seem to be a problem in Wonderland).  Despite the eldest oyster's warnings, the four oysters went with the walrus and carpenter.  The walrus and the carpenter ate the oysters.

Oops.  Should have listened to big brother.


I've included the poem in its entirety below.  It's in the public domain now, so I'm not ripping anyone off, just in case you were wondering.



Walrus & Carpenter Oyster Bar
Faneuil Hall, Boston
And now you know, if you didn't already, why oyster bars from Seattle to Boston are named after the walrus and the carpenter.  Our two favorites:

The Walrus and the Carpenter 
4743 Ballard Ave NW
Seattle, WA  98107

Chef Renee Erickson is letting the oyster sing in the newly restored Kolstrand building.  Named #3 Best New Restaurants in America by Bon Appetit magazine in 2011.

Walrus & the Carpenter
200 Faneuil Hall Market Place
Boston, MA  02109

Get past the fact that it's in one of America's favorite food courts, and you'll see that in the right hands, oysters can be served anywhere, anytime.



The Walrus and The Carpenter

Lewis Carroll

(from Through the Looking-Glass and What Alice Found There, 1872)

The sun was shining on the sea,
Shining with all his might:
He did his very best to make
The billows smooth and bright--
And this was odd, because it was
The middle of the night.
The moon was shining sulkily,
Because she thought the sun
Had got no business to be there
After the day was done--
"It's very rude of him," she said,
"To come and spoil the fun!"

The sea was wet as wet could be,
The sands were dry as dry.
You could not see a cloud, because
No cloud was in the sky:
No birds were flying overhead--
There were no birds to fly.
The Walrus and the Carpenter
Were walking close at hand;
They wept like anything to see
Such quantities of sand:
"If this were only cleared away,"
They said, "it would be grand!"
"If seven maids with seven mops
Swept it for half a year.
Do you suppose," the Walrus said,
"That they could get it clear?"
"I doubt it," said the Carpenter,
And shed a bitter tear.
"O Oysters, come and walk with us!"
The Walrus did beseech.
"A pleasant walk, a pleasant talk,
Along the briny beach:
We cannot do with more than four,
To give a hand to each."
The eldest Oyster looked at him,
But never a word he said:
The eldest Oyster winked his eye,
And shook his heavy head--
Meaning to say he did not choose
To leave the oyster-bed.
But four young Oysters hurried up,
All eager for the treat:
Their coats were brushed, their faces washed,
Their shoes were clean and neat--
And this was odd, because, you know,
They hadn't any feet.
Four other Oysters followed them,
And yet another four;
And thick and fast they came at last,
And more, and more, and more--
All hopping through the frothy waves,
And scrambling to the shore.

The Walrus and the Carpenter
Walked on a mile or so,
And then they rested on a rock
Conveniently low:
And all the little Oysters stood
And waited in a row.
"The time has come," the Walrus said,
"To talk of many things:
Of shoes--and ships--and sealing-wax--
Of cabbages--and kings--
And why the sea is boiling hot--
And whether pigs have wings."
"But wait a bit," the Oysters cried,
"Before we have our chat;
For some of us are out of breath,
And all of us are fat!"
"No hurry!" said the Carpenter.
They thanked him much for that.
"A loaf of bread," the Walrus said,
"Is what we chiefly need:
Pepper and vinegar besides
Are very good indeed--
Now if you're ready, Oysters dear,
We can begin to feed."
"But not on us!" the Oysters cried,
Turning a little blue.
"After such kindness, that would be
A dismal thing to do!"
"The night is fine," the Walrus said.
"Do you admire the view?

"It was so kind of you to come!
And you are very nice!"
The Carpenter said nothing but
"Cut us another slice:
I wish you were not quite so deaf--
I've had to ask you twice!"
"It seems a shame," the Walrus said,
"To play them such a trick,
After we've brought them out so far,
And made them trot so quick!"
The Carpenter said nothing but
"The butter's spread too thick!"
"I weep for you," the Walrus said:
"I deeply sympathize."
With sobs and tears he sorted out
Those of the largest size,
Holding his pocket-handkerchief
Before his streaming eyes.
"O Oysters," said the Carpenter,
"You've had a pleasant run!
Shall we be trotting home again?'
But answer came there none--
And this was scarcely odd, because
They'd eaten every one.

Thursday, January 24, 2013

Island Creek Oyster Bar. WOW!

Island Creek Oyster Bar has been on my oyster bucket list for a while so I was thrilled when I finally got the chance last week to stop by for a visit.  Wow, wow, wow!

Island Creek Oyster Bar
Boston, MA
Island Creek Oyster Bar is beyond good.   In fact, the restaurant would be a little intimidating if the staff weren't so friendly, the menu so approachable and the atmosphere so cozy.  The chef is pretty cool too.  It's all part of the secret sauce that has made this a hotspot for oyster newbies and ostreaphiles alike.

Jeremy Sewall, chef and co-owner
Island Creek Oyster Bar

I sat down with Jeremy Sewall, the chef and co-owner of Island Creek Oyster Bar, to talk oysters.  It turns out he's a quiet champion of the bivalve, intent on elevating and innovating the oyster experience.  He's inventing modern recipes, preaching the importance of knowing the oyster growers, introducing Northeasterners to impossible-to-get oysters, and stretching the palettes of his diners.

Sewall opened Island Creek Oyster Bar with acclaimed Island Creek Oysters owner/farmer Skip Bennett and restaurateur Garrett Harker in 2010.  The trio are heavy hitters on the Boston food scene.  In a line of many firsts, Sewall was the first chef to visit the Island Creek Oyster farm when he was searching for oysters to serve at Lineage, the restaurant he owns with his wife, Lisa.


What's the fascination with oysters?

He says he "riding the wave" of the oyster's growing fan base.  Cultivated oysters are sustainable and they're carbon negative, he says.  "And there's tons of health benefits." Oysters are high in zinc, are packed with high quality protein, and are a natural source of Vitamin D.  (I'll blog soon about all the health benefits from eating oysters.)

Located just a stone's throw away from Fenway Park in downtown Boston, Island Creek Oyster Bar has quickly become a favorite pre- and post-game spot for Red Sox fans. "Oysters, beer and baseball," he grins.  "Come on."  A perfect combo.

Raw bar at Island Creek Oyster Bar
The restaurant offers 8 - 12 varieties a night



The raw bar features 8 - 12 varieties of oysters per night.  Island Creeks are a staple, as are locally cultivated oysters from New England.  "It's not uncommon for people to eat through the list," he says.  The list of available oysters is updated online every night by 5pm.  Check out the available selections and the rest of the menu.


Another Sewall first: Island Creek Oyster Bar is the first and only East Coast restaurant that serves the infamous Hog Island Oysters.  (Visiting Hog Island Oyster farm is another entry on my bucket list).  The restaurant receives a bag of Hog Islands a week and when they're gone, they're gone.  Sadly, they were gone when I visited, but Sewall did treat me to a half dozen local oysters.

Ichabod Flat from Plymouth, MA
Island Creeks
Chef's choice: Island Creeks, Beach Points, Chathams, Rocky Nooks, Ichabod Flats and wild Wellfleets.  I'll write more about them in a future blog, but the quick take away is Yum!  My favorite was the Island Creek, but a close second was the Ichabod Flats from Plymouth, MA.    Both have an elevated briny flavor that I prefer.  I also enjoyed the wild Wellfleet, which were lettucey, a nod to their cousins on the West Coast.

Which one does Sewall prefer?

"Island Creeks, of course!"

The Ichabod Flats also happen to be Sewall's favorite at the moment.  That's the thing about oysters, you always get to try new ones and choose a new favorite.


Oysters Gregory
Recipe by Jeremy Sewall and Shore Gregory
Sewall's favorite oyster recipe?

 Oysters Gregory.  It's a dish he created and it boasts a following online.  Freshly shucked Island Creek Oysters sit on a a bed of creamed leaks topped with garlic, bacon, panko breadcrumbs, lemon zest and paprika.  They are then baked and served hot.  I tracked down the recipe for you thanks to the foodies at how2heros.com.  You can watch a video of Sewall himself making the dish he loves.

So now I cross off another item from my bucket list.  I think I've found my new favorite oyster bar.  Thanks for the oysters Chef Jeremy!






Island Creek Oyster Bar
500 Commonwealth Ave.
Boston, MA  02215
p. 617-532-5300



Friday, January 11, 2013

Oyster Geek and Oyster Freak


Troy D. Alphin
Center for Marine Science - UNCW
I'm an oyster geek.  There are few topics that interest me as much as oysters, which is why I was so excited to chat with Troy Alphin, Senior Research Associate at the Center for Marine Science at the University of North Carolina, Wilmington (UNCW).   He's an oyster geek-in-residence and talks about the lowly oyster with whimsy, admiration, passion, and, above all else, respect. With a bachelor's and master's degree in marine biology, Alphin is currently working on his doctorate in marine biology.  His doctoral project is trying to answer the question: What does a happy oyster look like?

"Think about it, if you go to a restaurant or grocery store or even see them in their natural habitat, how do you know they're happy?"

Did I mention that we were talking about the no face, no legs, no arms, no brain oyster? Happiness seems elusive.

He's still researching telltale signs to determine if an oyster is happy, but he is willing to give us some clues.  He calls them "ecosystem engineers" (fancy).  " Once established, they engineer the environment around them."  They attract mussels and oysters, trap nutrients, and filter the water.  They can even, in some regions, such as North Carolina, save us from storm surges.  Panda bears and kitty cats may get more attention, but none of them can do all that.  When the oyster is allowed to do their job, they are happy.

Even super studly, uber happy engineers, though, need a little help from us.

HELP SAVE THE OYSTER BABIES 

Millimeter comparison.
From http://waynesword.palomar.edu
"One of the biggest problems facing oysters today is the oyster larvae," Alphin says.  The oyster larvae is 1/10 of a millimeter.  To understand how small that is, try and touch your thumb and pointer finger as close together as possible without them touching.  Oyster larvae are 1/10 the distance between your thumb and finger.    Oyster larvae survival depends on their ability to connect to an existing structure, usually another oyster shell. However, sediment from runoff settles on the oyster shells.  The sediment is 1/2 mm, five times the size of a larvae, which makes it incredibly difficult for the larvae to find its own spot on a shell.  If the larvae can't find a place to nestle onto the shell, they will die.

That's where we come in.  We all have to do our part to help alleviate storm water runoff.  If you're lucky enough to live on a creek or estuary, make sure to leave the edge of your property in it's natural state.  Minimize or alleviate chemicals both inside your home and out.  And don't discharge anything directly into the water.

DYING YOUNG

Freak of Nature?
Fossilized oyster shell is at least
a foot long and probably
35 million years old.
Even those oysters who find a spot to grow face limited prospects.  We've come to accept that oysters live 4-5 years on the East Coast and grow to about 3-4 inches.  But just 100 years ago, oysters harvested from the waters outside New York were 6-8 inches.  Today, even in protected areas, oysters aren't living long past their cousins in open, harvested waters.  "Why?" he asks.  "There's no programmed death for oysters.  It's got to be the environment.  It's got to be ecological."

Why is it important that oysters live longer?  The longer the oyster lives, the bigger the oyster grows.  The bigger the oyster grows, the more eggs a female can produce.  The more eggs they produce, the more larvae.  The more larvae, the greater number of oysters.

PEARLS OF WISDOM

Because Alphin is both a biologist and oyster eater, I thought he was the perfect person to ask the two most important questions that nag oyster aficiandos:

1. Do you eat raw oysters? 
"You should always cook your oysters," he says.

2. Do you eat (non-triploid) oysters in non-R months?
"Yes, as long as they're cultivated.  And they're cooked."

And that's all he'll say about that.  I, however, remain loyal to raw oysters.  And that's all I'll say about that.

Thanks for working every day to help save the oyster, Troy.